-The Cordovan Pardessus
-Embroidery Patterns
-Novelties for September
-Elegant Evening Dress
-Caprices of Fashion
-Fashion Plate for September
-Autumn Bonnets
-Bead Net for the Hair
-Chitchat Upon Fashions for September
-Patchwork Pattern
Embroidery Patterns.
Novelties for September.
Elegant Evening Dress.
Caprices of Fashion.
FLOWERS, lace and ribbons are more used at the present day than at any time since it has been our province to notice the "caprices of fashion." To illustrate the use of the first in evening-dress, Madame Bernard, of Paris, has just made a ball-dress having four skirts of pink and white thulle over a moiré slip, and looped up at intervals by bunches of red and white bindweed, connected by long festoons. The body, of pulled thulle mixed with narrow blonde, was surrounded by a cordon of bindweed, front which there hung down all around small, slender branches, those in the middle terminating in large tufts. The headdress was made to sit well round the bandeaux, and two long branches hanging down on the left-hand side completed the most graceful decoration that can possibly be imagined.
A trimming of the same kind, but of flame-color nasturtiums, made by Madame Camille Duchateau, as was the one already described, was applied by Madame Bernard to a white dress of tarleton and silk. Madame Camille Duchateau has also sent off several other charming trimmings: One of Japan glycine, to accompany a dress of white brocatelle; one of white laurel and heather foliage; one of poppies and fern.
All flowers were mixed with plenty of foliage
Many headdresses have knots of flags placed rather irregularly on the forehead and behind; sometimes they add to round crowns, especially for young ladies, a small aigrette of foliage placed at the side, and producing the effect of a feather. Madame Camille Duchateau has also forwarded to the fair and beautiful Mesdemoiselles de N- headdresses in this style made of blue cineraria; the breast bouquets were also terminated by tufts of grass.
With bonnets for full dress half wreaths of velvet foliage are worn across the forehead, and with bonnets for ordinary wear loops or tresses of velvet or ribbon.
Berthes are timed with a combination of black and white lace or blonde. A berthe of white thulle, trimmed with black lace and white blonde is alternate rows, was adopted for a few evenings ago with a dress of Pomona green. The dress was trimmed with three broad flounces, and in the hair there was a cache peigne of roses, intermingled with blades of grass.
Many novelties in bijouterie, in which hair forms a part, have recently appeared. Bracelets composed of hair are studded with jewels. Brooches are encircled in a framework of richly wrought gold, ornamented with pearls. Some very elegant ear-rings have been formed of hair and turquoise.
Oxidized silver is now to be found not only in waistbands and fancy buckles, but in all sorts of jewelry. This style, after being neglected for some years, is now in high vogue again. The same may be said of large stones, such as topazes, amethysts, garnets, and fretted jewelry in colored gold.
For walking-dress plain bracelets with enamel incrustations of several colors seem likely to replace the bracelets with devices. But the most important innovation recently made with respect to jewels consists of the new style of watch-chains which we have lately observed in the elegant show-rooms of Messrs. Baudin Brothers. These chains, tightened round the neck by means of slides set with precious stones or enameled, separate into two parts, one of which ends in a swivel to receive the watch, the other in a tassel or seal.
Description of Fashion-Plate for September.
Fig 1. - Street dress of a rich brown taffeta (thick silk); the lower skirt is finished by a deep flounce, the upper one is in the style of a tunic. Round corsage, with sash open sleeves. White crape bonnet, bound with Sevres blue.
Fig 2. - Dress of delicate French gray challais, double skirt; the outline of the upper one slightly waved. The trimming is a ruche contraire of the same shade of silk. Crinoline bonnet, with plaits and strings of Alpine Rose.
Fig 3. - Walking dress and mantle of black silk. White chip hat, with dark field flowers.
Fig 4. - Dress suited for the earlier part of this month. Dress of rose-colored grenadine, with bars made by a black corded thread. Upper skirt and corsage timed by a ruche of ribbon, a shade deeper than the dress, bordered by Chantilly or Pusher lace. Barbe of black lace, with golden wheat-ears on the heat. Mantle of black net, with ribbon drawn through the hem.
Autumn Bonnets.
Fig 1. -Gray, fancy linen braid; cape of flame-colored silk, edged by black velvet ribbon; loops and bows of the same ribbon on the hat, with bouquets of wheat-ears and field-flowers, both much in request.
Fig 2.-Fine white Dunstable, with double cape of black silk, edged with two and three rows of scarlet. Black taffeta ribbon edged with scarlet; scarlet geraniums and leaves to the left, outside and inside the brim.
We have the gratification of spreading before our fair friends one of the most elegant modes which has ever graced our pages. It is a pardessus, made of the richest black taffeta, of the heaviest fabric. The upper portion of this garment sets well to the figure, opening with a surplice front. A magnificent velvet passementerie, with a massive fringe, enriched by falls of chenille balls, at intervals, forms a bretelle front; at the back it is carried across from shoulder to shoulder, forming a V shape. The skirt is formed of reversed plaits, very broad, which at the back, instead of being sewed flat at the waist, are tacked only at each corner, where there is placed a chenille star, from which a tiny tassel falls as from a calyx; the stuff this left unconfined (the edge being trimmed, however, with a ball passementerie, which also adorns the front edges) falls in small, transverse folds, like miniature curtain drapery. Upon the sides, three of the plaits are carried up almost to the shoulder, but are confined at the level of the elbow, and thus the upper portion forms puffs, which give somewhat the appearance of sleeves to the garment, and are not only a novel but a most exquisite addition to the beauty of this article of apparel. In front of the folds there is an opening for the arms. There are velvet ornaments with neat tassels placed on the faces of the plaits on the arms and the front of the cloak. A trimming, similar to that which forms the bretelles, adorns the plaits near the bottom, at the back, which is not carried further than the third plait of the sides.
Fig 1. - Sacque for morning-dress, of white cambric, with insertions and flouncing in broderie Anglaise. It is intended to be worn with a suitable white cambric skirt. The novelty consists in the Bayadere plaits across the front. This is an elegant style for summer robes de nuit, the sacque continued into a skirt, the front and sleeves as in the cut.
Fig. 2 - Autumn riding-hat, of plain gray felt or beaver; black velvet band around the low, round crown, and a tasteful bow of the same to the left. This shape is extremely good for shading the face and neck.
Figs. 3 and 4 - Extremely neat and very popular set of plaid linen, cambric, or muslin, plaided with a narrow black velvet ribbon. Satin ribbon of any hue may be used; the velvet will answer for all purposes and colors in the dress. Very suitable for fall and winter wear.
Figs. 5 and 6 - Fall bonnets of crape, lace, and plaid, and striped taffetas.
It may be made in either silk or tarleton, or, in fact, of any light material suitable for evening wear. The long lapels which cross in front, and to which the upper skirt is looped, have a very tasteful effect. If the material be silk, the bordering of these may be pinked and worn with bows of ribbon of the same color, or of black velvet. If the dress be made of tarleton, these must be edged with blonde, with bows either of white or light-colored ribbon.
