Excerpts From
Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine
January, 1860.

INDEX

-The Albuera
-Lady's Hood
-Knitted Winter Sock
-Braiding Pattern for Top of Pincushion
-Designs for Quilting
-Novelties for January
-Knitted Bosom Friend, or Sontag
-Description of Latest Styles
-Chitchat Upon Fashions for January

The Albuera.

We present for this month's illustration of modes a garment of striped cloth, constructed with a hood of peculiar beauty and simplicity, lined with taffeta, and ornamented with a heavy cable cord and tassels. This and the lower portion of the cloak are trimmed with ruches of black velvet. We might, for the purpose of making a more flashy picture, have selected a more showy article; but we prefer consulting the good sense of our readers, and therefore offer from the large variety before us one in which beauty and utility are so admirably united.

Lady's Hood for a Sea Voyage, Sleighing, Opera, etc.

This material may be any dark, rich silk, though in the design before us we have black velvet. Its distinguishing novelty is the round crown piece, into which the front is gathered. The facing which turns back, with a ribbon ruche of the same shade, should be of some pretty contrasting color.

Knitted Winter Sock.

Materials.-Six ounces of lambswool; 4 pins, No. 18.

Cast on 38 loops on each of three pins. Knit two plain, one pearl in every row. Knit till the work measures nine inches, narrowing five times in that space by knitting two stitches together on each side of the back seam; divide the loops in half, and form the heel thus: Place one half of the loops on one pin for the heel, the remainder on the two pins for the instep. Knit the loops on one pin for four inches, narrowing twice; knit to the back seam, divide the loops and cast off. Pick up the loops at each side of the heel, knit these with those for the instep. In the first round make a stitch after every third on the two side pins; in the next round, narrow by knitting the last on the side pin and the first on the instep in one; repeat at the other side of instep. Next round, plain. Repeat these two rounds fourteen times; then knit about eighty rounds; after which, narrow for the toe. Narrow three times at each side of the pins in every other round, till the whole are narrowed off the sole of the foot, and the last sixty rounds must be plain knitting.

Braiding Pattern for the Top of a Pincushion.

Designs for Quilting.

Novelties for January.

Fig 1.-Fichu for dinner-dress; an entirely new and excellent shape. The material is Swiss muslin, and the embroidered edge is wrought on the same. The trimming is of black velvet ribbon, figured in blocks and stripes.

Figs. 2 and 3.- New shape and style of embroidery for collars and cuffs. The points in front, and the single spray of work in the corner, with a neat row of stitching about the edge. Material, linen or cambric; the same style is made up in muslin, with an edge of Valenciennes.

Fig. 4. - To oblige our industrious and domestic lady readers, who still "make shirts", we give the latest, that is to say, one of the latest and best styles. The shape of the sleeves, cuffs, collar, and general model of the garment, will be found unexceptionable. Where upright collars are preferred, they are straight and narrow, rounding at the chin.

Figs. 5 and 6 - Styles of combination, black and white lace, much used for dress occasions. (See Chitchat.)

Bosom Friend, or Sontag.

Materials.- Three and a half ounces crimson double zephyr, two and a half ounces white, half an ounce black, small bone or wooden needles.

Cast on thirty-five stitches, knit five stitches forwards and five backwards, thus forming the blocks; knit five lines in this way, widening one stitch at the commencement of each line. Knit the second row of blocks alternate with the first; knit eighteen blocks, then divide the blocks so that five are left in the middle and an equal number n each side. Bind off the five middle blocks, and knit up one front, narrowing one stitch on the inside every fourth line for six blocks; narrow every other line for the next six blocks; then narrow every line until you come to a point. For the border, cast on twelve stitches, knit plain; for the neck, ten stitches in width. The spots are darned on with black, in imitation of ermine.

A loop is put on one end, in front, and a button on the other, it crossed over and buttoned at the back; the back is fastened to a cord and tassels passing round the waist and tied in front.

For Sleeves.

Materials.- One and a half ounce of white single zephyr and small bone needles for puffs; half an ounce of crimson zephyr and a pair of steel needles for the bands.

Cast on seventy-two stitches, loosely, on steel needles; knit two stitches forwards and two back for eighteen rows, making a band. The bands are all alike. For the puffs, wrap round twice, take two together backwards; knit sixteen lines in this way for the first puff; for the second puff twenty lines, and the last thirty-six lines; sew the sleeves up.

Description of the Latest Styles.

The Olivares.

Mantle of rich black velvet; the pelerine, epaulets, and side trimming of rich guipure lace, as are also the medallion ornaments on the plaits.

Sultana Cloak.

The extremely elegant effect of the Sultana Opera Cloak cannot fail to strike the observer. The graceful, easy flow when on the figure is pleasing to the eye, and exhibits symptoms of most successful taste. It will be seen that the folds fall in a totally different direction to the generality of opera cloaks. Instead of draping from the shoulders downward, thereby creating an unnatural stiffness in the figure, they assume a semicircular form, fall gracefully into the waist, and produce a becoming fullness in the skirt otherwise unattainable. The hood, or rather semblance of a hood, is very recherché, and ornamented with tassels, manufactured expressly for the cloak from a design obtained from one of the internal decorations of the principal court of the Alhambra. It is fastened in front with a loop and buttons to correspond with the tassels, and affords unusual protection to the chest.

The Diego.

The peculiarity of this elegant mantle is the combination of colors, the yoke and the skirt being gray, the scarf plaited on the shoulders and falling thence in easy fullness, of a dark shade of brown. It gives style to the figure, and is a very comfortable garment.

Chitchat Upon New York and Philadelphia Fashions, for January.

As our issue has suggested bridal dresses, we give one or two other styles verbally, as being seasonable and useful hints:-

First, a robe of very rich white satin; the skirt is extremely full, and ornamented with a trimming formed of a plaiting of satin, set on so as to present the effect of a tunic. This plaiting is carried up each side of the corsage, and finishes at the shoulders. The corsage is plain and pointed in front of the waist. The sleeves are formed of two puffs at the upper part of the arm, and below the puffs there is a frill, edged with a plaiting corresponding with that on the other part of the dress. Collar and undersleeves of Honiton point; the collar fastened at the throat by a pearl brooch. The front hair is disposed in bands, which fall backwards from the face and join the knot of hair under the cache-peigne at the back of the head, the ends falling in ringlets at each side. The bridal wreath is composed of white hyacinth and daisies. Scarf veil of white thulle, fixed by pearl pins at the top part of the head, and flowing over the shoulders and back part of the dress, so as to descend nearly to the bottom of the skirt.

Book muslin, the favorite evening-dress of the past generation, is coming again into favor, as will be seen by the description of a wedding outfit, recently furnished by a celebrated French establishment. We quote the whole trosseau, as interesting to all young ladies, whether brides or bridesmaids:-

First, the wedding dress of book muslin and point lace with alternating flounces, the bride's veil of point lace, and handkerchief to match. Then an open dress for the day after the wedding, of white and blue striped moiré, with bows in front and rosettes at the side. A green silk dress for visiting, quite covered with flounces and accompanied by a scarf of the same, which has an elegant effect. A sky-blue moiré antique dress trimmed with Alencons, and another of pink silk trimmed with blonde.

For the same wedding Mme. Alexandrine supplied the following bonnets:-

One of white crape, with a branch of white lilac on the front, and a diadem bandeau of the same inside across the forehead. Another was a Tuscan, with a curtain arranged in somewhat irregular flutes, and, as trimming, a velvet torsade with a straw cord. This torsade comes down on the right side quite under the curtain, and ends on the left hand side about the middle, where it is fastened under a large poppy with great buds swaying on their slender stems. Inside, flame-colored ruche is terminated on the right hand by a branch of poppies just like those on the outside. A bonnet of white thulle embroidered with black has a wide border of felt-gray crape and a gray silk ribbon all round the crown. A Chantilly fall, fastened on the left edge of the front by an elongated tuft of red daisies, is passed slantwise across the bonnet and ends like a scarf on the right side, above the terry velvet curtain, which is laid in flat plaits at top, and has a bias piece in the middle. The bandeau is composed of bunches of small black fruit and tufts of red field daisies. Strings of narrow pink ribbon are sewed on over the wide ones of felt gray silk.

For the wedding-ball, which would be the prelude to several other large parties, Mme. Bonier-Cherre supplied some very beautiful articles. Her Alma coiffure of white lilac in very small branches, mixed with roses, and forming a bow at the side, from which escaped two unequal branches of lilac foliage; and her Aissa coiffure ,composed of two garlands of rose-leaves, one of which lies on the forehead, the other on the back-hair, the second row ornamented at the side with a long tuft of mixed roses, and the first row-that on the forehead- having merely on the right a very small bunch of rosebuds. These two creations, quite new and exquisitely graceful, will be won by two cousins of the bride, who bear one of the great historical names of France.

Other coiffures, still more decidedly oriental, are: A gold diadem, with a large tuft of red roses and coffee-berries. A bow of flame colored velvet and caraib fruit mixed up with gold lace and velvet poppies.

The book-muslin brides of the last cycle of fashion would have been sadly at a loss as to the use of all this finery; but nowadays, in anything like fashionable city life, an equal, if not more expensive, outfit is considered necessary for the receptions, the parties, and other festivities that a bride is expected to attend. Happy they, who, in country life, can subside more noiselessly into the calm of domestic quiet. Even the bride's friends, with us, are expected to prepare for the great occasion, for a morning reception requires almost a full dress toilet, the dress itself to be rich and light, the scarf a shawl extremely elegant, and the bonnet as light and effective as possible .We give a costume which is considered suitable for such an occasion:-

Robe with double skirt, of pale mauve-colored silk, without any trimming; the corsage high to the throat. Collar and undersleeves of lace. Bonnet of white terry velvet, with a small plume of white feathers on one side; under-trimming of blonde and white roses; strings of white terry velvet ribbon. Shawl of India cashmere, with a white ground, and a border of rich arabesque pattern.

For an evening reception, a dress suitable for a young lady is composed of white and pink tarletane, worn over a slip of pink silk. The skirt of this dress consists of white tarletane, and is trimmed with nine gauffered flounces, five of white and four of pink tarletane, dispersed alternately. Another very pretty dress consists of mauve-colored tarletane over silk of the same color. There are two skirts of tarletane, the lower one trimmed with five narrow gauffered flounces. The upper skirt is open in the tunic form, and is bordered with a gauffering of mauve-color silk. A dress of light green tarletane over silk of the same tint is also extremely pretty; it has three skirts, each trimmed with a light ruche, edged in blonde.

For plainer dresses, the great novelty is the introduction of tight sleeves, as in the gored dress of October number, and demi-tight as in the fashion-plate of this. We consider the sleeve in Fig. 2 one of the best of this style, which has certainly come into favor astonishingly. Fig. 1 differs from it only in being without the puffs at the top of the sleeves. The parement or mousquetaire cuff is almost universal, and takes away from the stiffness of the shallow drapery. When the sleeve is quite close to the arm, it often has a jockey, puff, or short flounce at the shoulder, flat bows, or macaroons, going from the wrist half way to the elbow. Demi-tight coat sleeves, with a seam on the back as well as the inside of the arm, are in very good taste. The pointed corsages are the favorites for thick stuffs, the points being very long and sharp; but many silks, especially for young ladies are also a la vierge, plain on the shoulder, and gathered into a rounded waistband. These are intended to be finished by a sash or belt. There is little doubt of the decadence of side stripes, double skirts, and nearly all robe patterns for skirts, and in their place flounces of every depth and style have come in, together with the spirals of lace and ribbons, and the oval ornaments of silk and lace, called macaroons, which are disposed in various ways on the skirt and sleeves. Flounces have a heading usually, a braiding of the same silk. They may be graduated regularly as to width from the hem to the waist, or set in groups, or a group of narrow ones- ruffles, they might be called- are sometimes placed as headings of a single deep fall, and the sleeves made in correspondence.

Striped silks, the stripes being from four to six inches wide, and alternating in color, style, etc., are among the richest figured materials for street-dress, as a stripe of dark green satin, with the alternate stripe of silk, figured in some pretty floral design. Alternate stripes of black silk and velvet are also very elegant. Moiré antique is worn rather more now than the past season, the favorite colors being royal purple and emerald green. The broché silks are in fact real brocades of our grandmothers, broché meaning only embroidery- a rich black or gray taffeta ground is sprinkled with small sprays or bouquets of flowers. These are much worn for evening-dress. Fawn, green, mode, ashes of roses, etc. are among the shades used as a ground, the flowers being in their natural colors. Black, deep purple, maroon, and deep blue taffetas, figured with black velvet, are, perhaps, the most expensive dresses.